Gluten-free avocado toast. Hands-free pancake makers. Breakfast “in the round” instead of on the buffet line.
As these recent innovations in the self-service approach to providing hotel meals make clear, the pandemic-driven demise of the hotel buffet that was predicted by many has not come to pass. In many cases, buffets are thriving, and managers have often stepped up the quality even as they seek efficiencies.
Operators and analysts differ about the extent to which buffets disappeared during the peak of the pandemic, but there is no doubt they were significantly affected in frequency and in format. Richard Garcia, senior vice president of food and beverage at Remington Hotels, said while many guests were apprehensive about using the buffet during the peak of the pandemic, buffets were well-received once they were modified for safety, which eased staffing challenges while still providing convenient food options for guests.
Adam Crocini, senior vice president and global head, food and beverage, at Hilton, said teams were pushed to “rethink and reimagine” the services and experiences offered at hotels, resulting in a shift toward grab-and-go options and technologies that both drove efficiencies and increased comfort for guests. That included the use of QR codes and pay-and-deliver food experiences as Hilton recognized guest preferences for convenient and contactless solutions.
Chris Lorino, senior vice president of operations for hotel management company First Hospitality, said that during the pandemic buffet availability was dependent upon state and local restrictions, making the dining choice a “very fluid, continually changing aspect of the business.”
John Bonds, senior vice president of enterprise options and technology for Choice Hotels International, said when the industry moved away from buffets due to health and hygiene concerns, the operator’s midscale and upper-midscale brands offered alternative breakfast options based on occupancy, forecast guest demand and staffing levels. Complimentary breakfast and marketplace options provided stability for guests, most of whom were essential workers such as traveling nurses.
While buffets did disappear to a great extent, James Samson, president of consulting firm Samson Hospitality, said hotel buffets began returning in the middle of 2021 with “a heightened state of awareness” — including more sneeze guards, mandatory face masks, hand sanitizers, pre-packaged silverware and to-go plates.
As for meetings and banquets, even during the pandemic, some groups continued to request buffets, said Devin Burns, vice president of rooms and food and beverage at Omni Hotels & Resorts.
In these instances, Omni followed specific “Safe and Clean” protocols including food safety shields over all displays, all individual food items specially packaged and sealed and no self-serve food or drink items, Burns said. In addition, staff wore masks and gloves and followed full safety procedures as outlined by the Centers for Disease Control and local authorities.
A Gradual Return to ‘Normal’
After about a year of buffets being eliminated or replaced by pre-wrapped food items and other substitutions, buffets began to creep back by mid-2021. And a year later, buffets were back in force with modifications — some involving safety, but mostly around evolving guest preferences.
Anthony Langan, vice president of food and beverage at hotel management company Charlestowne Hotels, said buffets began to return with modifications such as pre-plated food, individually wrapped items or attendant-facilitated service instead of self-service.
Most operations took additional steps, including using physical barriers to designate entry and exit points, utilizing floor markers for social distancing, or implementing touchless technology, Langan said.
Based on research indicating it was time to bring back the hot breakfast buffet, Choice revised its breakfast requirements in the spring of 2022 with the return of the full, complimentary breakfast bars tailored by its brands, Bonds said.
Rethinking the Formula
Buffets have been evolving since before the pandemic, but experts said the crisis served as an accelerant. Bjorn Hanson, adjunct professor at New York University School of Professional Studies' Jonathan M. Tisch Center of Hospitality, said even the word “buffet” is often being replaced with "self-service" because of the alterations to the traditional concept.
With the return of travel, one of the biggest changes was what the hotel breakfast would look like, said Stephanie Atiase, global brand head for Holiday Inn Express. The brand conducted pilot programs to better understand how guests would enjoy an adapted experience — resulting in a revamped menu to include more variety.
Longtime favorites — including the pancake machine and cinnamon roll station — were maintained, Atiase said. But given changing guest preferences, the brand has placed an added emphasis on offering a wide selection that includes Greek yogurt, fresh fruit and oatmeal with toppings.
Langan said where a property may once have relied solely on a traditional, self-service buffet, other alternatives are increasingly common, such as pre-plated options or having an attendant make a plate and bring it to a table or deliver it to a guest room.
Other changes include having dining staff refresh food items more frequently and, when possible, provide fresh-made products like omelets and pancakes, Garcia said. When guests can see their food prepared, it helps them feel safer, he added. To ensure less contact at the beverage station, Remington pivoted to delivering beverages to tables.
Utensil swapping, sanitation stations and pre-packaged items are more of a focus for First Hospitality's hotels, Lorino said. Higher-touch service — such as pouring coffee for guests and passing hors d’oeuvres — are more prominent than the “stations” and “grazing tables” that prevailed in the past.
Samson said the pandemic spurred hotels to experiment with how things might be done more efficiently. It was “a time to reset and reorganize buffets to make things easier for the staff” — such as linen-less tables and buffet setups that didn’t have to be broken down and reassembled all the time.
Still, Samson said food displays have to look great.
“We’re in the business of building experiences,” Samson said, and that means being aesthetically pleasing. Guests have phones, he added, “and if you can sharpen up the images they take of your buffets that’s a marketing tool that hotels can showcase. “
At IHG Hotels & Resorts' Avid Hotels brand, Vice President Karen Gilbride said all properties offer a “Good All Round” breakfast with rotating hot daily options like handheld egg-white omelets, egg bites and sandwiches. In addition, guests have convenient single-serve options like granola bars, yogurt, muffins and fruit that can be easily taken on the go.
On the design front, the Avid brand discovered that creating a round breakfast display — a circular display of food items centrally located in the room — reduced lines as guests felt empowered to walk up and grab what they needed.
Hilton has seen cold coffee drinks, specifically nitro and cold brew coffee, become increasingly popular, Crocini said. Similarly, it’s been equally important for hotels to provide alternative milk options, such as oat or almond milk.
Last summer, Holiday Inn, launched a brand-new breakfast buffet with upgraded core items — such as decadent French toast, herb breakfast potatoes and thick-cut bacon — and introduced in-house fresh-baked pastries, in addition to rotating regional favorites such as a New York bagel breakfast sandwich and a breakfast burrito.
Holiday Inn Vice President Raul Ortiz said the program is being installed in more hotels daily, and those with the new version are outscoring other properties in breakfast satisfaction.
Pleasing Meeting Planners
While banquet and meeting buffets might have been most affected, buffet service is essentially back to 99% pre-pandemic normalcy, Lorino said, but First Hospitality continues to be cognizant of how it displays food, maintains temperatures, spaces tables and uses utensils. There has been a slight hesitancy among larger groups to feature buffets, he said, but smaller groups, especially corporate, like the flexibility and value.
Samson said there is a lot more focus on healthy choices for meetings, like avocado toast on gluten-free bread, acai bowls and grain bowls. Meeting planners, in particular, are willing to pay more for that enhancement. He said his clients’ banquet pricing is up close to 25% in the last two years, and there is little pushback on the increase.
Petr Raba, vice president of meetings and events and global operations for U.S. and Canada at Marriott International, said there will always be a need for buffet-style service in the banquet environment because it allows hotels to offer a wide variety of choices in a format that can expedite service.
Raba said customers are eager to return to in-person meetings and events but with “elevated expectations.” The use of outdoor locations and previously underutilized lounges and outlets continues to be popular, allowing for extended flexibility for food stations and buffets.
Steve Enselein, senior vice president of events for Hyatt Hotels Corp., said the company is seeing more meetings with evolving buffet presentations. Many planners choose to set up individual stations, such as meat carving, pasta, fish and salad, rather than a classic buffet, especially during evening events.
Enselein said Hyatt has also seen increased use of individual portions of charcuterie created and placed on the buffet in advance.
Going Local and Sustainable
Buffets are not immune from the prevailing trends of local and sustainable items.
“We are winning if we can connect them to the local community through our food and beverage offerings,” Garcia said.
Crocini said 32% of guests surveyed said they will prioritize locally sourced food and beverage in 2023. Though morning dishes such as avocado toast, grain bowls and smoothies are new to the hotel food scene, guests now expect these healthier items. An increased interest in healthier food and beverage offerings has also prompted Homewood Suites by Hilton to replace 80% of the high-calorie products such as soda, chips and cookies with more nutrient-rich and wellness-minded options.
As for sustainability, Lorino said hotel employees are focused on replenishing and preparing only what is needed; using induction warmers versus fuel heaters that get discarded to landfills; and using biodegradable plates, cups, straws and stirrer products whenever possible.
Staffing Not an Issue
Despite continuing employee shortages, most hotel executives have not seen staffing as a big issue driving buffets. Pre-pandemic, Remington used more labor for buffets, but that’s because managers have found ways to be more efficient, Garcia said. Reducing menu items, in particular, puts less pressure on the kitchen and enables a better experience and a more consistent offering.
For First Hospitality, Lorino said staffing challenges are not affecting buffets at all. The goal, he added, “is to execute against what our guests and clients want, whether that’s a private event or a complimentary offering as part of a brand standard.”